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|Paint Application Temperature
The minimum application temperature on the label should be followed. Most products have a minimum application temperature of 50 ˚ F. but some products have a 35 ˚ F. minimum application temperature. That minimum temperature isn't the air temperature, it’s the surface temperature. If the air temp last night was 32 ˚ F. and the air temp just reached 50 ˚ F., the surface probably isn't 50 ˚F. yet. A surface such as brick, wood or aluminum will take longer to warm up than the air.
Some people believe that oil base products can be applied at any temperature because it does not freeze. It is true that oil base products do not freeze but when they are applied at low temps the drying is greatly retarded and some times stops altogether. If that happens the sticky coating will attract leaves and debris blown around in the wind.
The most important thing to keep in mind when thinking about minimum temps is the forecast. If the temperature is predicted to drop below the minimum in the next 36 to 72 hours do not paint. If the temperature at application meets the minimum requirements make sure that you can maintain at least that temp for a minimum of 36 to 72 hours. Remember just because it’s 63 ˚ F. with the sun shinning when you apply the coating, doesn't mean it will be just as warm and nice when the sun goes down.
On the other end of the spectrum the maximum application temperature should be kept in mind. Most coatings are 90 ˚ F. maximum, surface and air temp.. On hot sunny days start your work early in the morning and try to work on the opposite side of the sun. If the air temp. is 88 ˚ F. with the sun baking down, the surface temp. could be 100 ˚ F. or better.
Not following these guide lines will cut years off the life of the coating, with problems such as premature fading, cracking, bubbling, lack of adhesion and other problems.
|Envirotex Lite Tips
Professional Tips for Coating Large Areas, Tables & Bar Tops!
Large areas, tables & bar tops often require special application procedures when applying Envirotex Lite. The following information and tips will help you achieve professional results. Familiarize yourself with the following procedures by practicing on a small sample first.
Coating area conditions:
- Measuring cup & straight sided, flat bottom disposable paper or plastic pail. Mixing container must be 50% larger than mix to allow for an adequate area for mixing. Do not mix in a wax coated container, as the wax coating may break free contaminating the mixture.
- Stirring paddle must have a straight edge, such as a paint paddle, to allow user to constantly scrape sides and bottom of mixing container.
- Plastic spatula, cardboard or business cards work well to help spread Envirotex Lite over large areas.
- A clean, dry and dust free room is a must.
- Humidity: All polymer compounds react to high humidity. Using Envirotex Lite in a room where humidity is below 50% will give best results. High humidity can cause an oily looking film on the finished surface that can be repaired by re-coating in a room at the correct humidity. Placing an inexpensive weather set in your coating room will help you with knowing room temperature and humidity. The lower the humidity, the faster and harder the cure. If high humidity is a problem, the use of a dehumidifier in your coating room will help remove moisture in the air.
- For best results, coat at temperatures between 70° F to80° F. Higher room temperatures after pouring will help to speed up cure rate as well as hardness. We do not recommend temperatures above 100° F. For optimum heat control, use a small electric heater. Do not use propane heaters since a byproduct of burning propane is moisture vapor.
The surface to which Envirotex Lite is applied to should be:
- Dry and free from dust, dirt, oil, grease, etc.
- Elevated to allow the Envirotex Lite to flow freely off the sides of the item to be coated. Use paper or plastic cups to elevate the item. Place 2 to 3 in from sides so excess fluid does not run under and glue the cups to work piece!
Sealing New Surfaces & Preparing Old: New Wood Surface: Requires a thin seal coat of Envirotex Lite prior to flood coating. Mix approximately 1/4 the amount you would use to flood coat. Spread thinly over entire surface then scrape off all excess with a piece of cardboard or plastic spatula. This puts a thin film down over air passages and seals them off. This thin seal coat will allow the air to escape freely while effectively sealing the wood surface. If a thick seal coat is applied, escaping air will be trapped and will result in a large number of bubbles that are difficult to remove, especially on Oak! Should this occur, do not attempt to remove the bubbles with a torch as this will heat up the wood surface resulting in the release of more bubbles. Instead, scrape off all excess Envirotex Lite so that the bubbles can freely break on their own! Allow the seal coat to cure for 5 hours, and you are ready to flood coat. Note: Occasionally a second seal coat is required. To determine if this is necessary, check the first seal coat. The surface should have an overall shiny appearance to it. Dull spots are an indication that the surface is not effectively sealed. These dull spots must be sealed with a second seal coat. Note: Due to the porous nature of Oak, a second seal coat is a must!
Pictures, Prints, Puzzles, Fabric, etc.:
Glue these items down with white glue that dries clear. Apply a generous amount of white glue to back of your picture, print, etc., then place on work surface. Using a brayer or squeegee, remove excess glue and air bubbles from under picture, print, etc. Using a foam brush or paint roller apply two seal coats of white glue over your work surface. Allow glue to dry between coats. Do not use spray adhesives. Spray adhesives will not hold under Envirotex Lite
Painted, Previously Finished Surfaces and Plastic Laminates:
These surfaces do not require seal coats but must be sanded for adhesion, then cleaned prior to coating. Note: All wax and polish must be removed from previously finished surfaces with wax remover.
Large Wood Slabs & Preventing Warpage:
Moisture content of wood must be 15% or less to coat with Envirotex Lite. Once coated, seal underside of slab to prevent moisture from migrating in or out of wood. To check moisture content, use a moisture meter or drill small test holes into the backside of your wood slab. Check the wood shavings for moisture. The wood shavings must feel dry!
Table & Bar Top edges, etc.:
Both the top and bottom square edges should be slightly rounded with sandpaper or with a router and ¼” cove bit. The result of this will be a smooth professional looking edge requiring fewer coats of Envirotex Lite.
Before measuring Envirotex Lite, ensure that the resin & hardener bottles are slightly warm to the touch. (70° F). If not, place both bottles In warm, not hot, water for 5-to-lO minutes prior to using. As a result, the resin and hardener will measure easier and mix better with fewer bubbles
- Measure the Envirotex Lite in exact amounts by volume. Do not guess at the proper ratio or just empty the two bottles into your mixing container. Unless you measure equal portions of resin and hardener, your ratio will very likely be inaccurate, resulting in a soft sticky coating! Determine the amount of fluid to be used by measuring the top and sides of your project. On average use 4 -to- 6 ounces of Envirotex Lite per square foot. Envirotex Lite will not level correctly if spread too thin!
- Mix measured resin and hardener in a clean, straight sided, fiat bottom container. Stir until thoroughly blended. Scraping sides and bottom continually while mixing is a must! Mixing should be completed after 2 minutes of vigorous mixing. To ensure a thorough mix, have two mixing containers ready. Begin mixing in the first mixing container. After one minute of vigorous mixing, transfer contents into second container and continue vigorous mixing for two minutes. Improper mixing will result in soft or tacky spots that will not cure! We do not recommend mixing more than one gallon of fluid at a time.
- Pour, do not wait! Pour as soon as thoroughly mixed. Pour over surface an a circular pattern. Start close to the edge and work towards the center of your work. This will allow the Envirotex Lite to level from the center out to the edges of your work surface. Help spread where necessary with a stiff piece of paper or plastic spatula. Be careful not to spread too thin resulting in a wavy surface. Use a helper for mixing and pouring large objects. One person can mix while the other pours the coating. Caution: If Envirotex Lite is left in the mixing container, it will become hot and set up rapidly!
- Working time with Envirotex Lite: If you pour immediately after mixing, you will have approximately 25 minutes of working time at 70°. Less time for warmer temperatures.
- Removing Bubbles: Within 10 minutes of pouring, air bubbles created while mixing will rise to the surface and begin to break. Exhaling across the surface at this point will break bubbles. However, on large surfaces the use of a small propane torch is the easiest and most effective method of removing air bubbles. The reasons for this are that Envirotex Lite contains no flammable solvents, and carbon dioxide rich exhaust gases from a propane flame effectively release trapped bubbles. With a moderate flame, pass the torch over the surface with a swift, even, sweeping motion. Never hold torch closer than 3 to 4 inches from surface. Sweep past the ends of your work so that the torch never stops on your fresh coating! Avoid over torching which may scorch the surface. Warm room temperatures will result in better bubble release. Note: We do not recommend the use of a hair dryer for removing bubbles. Hair dryers will blow lint from the surrounding air onto your work! Caution: Although Envirotex Lite contains no flammable solvents, the objects you are coating, as well as surrounding table covers, etc., may be flammable.
- Cover your work: Use a plastic drop sheet to keep dust and lint particles off while Envirotex Lite sets.
- Flat straight edges: After a number of Envirotex Lite coats, wide flat edges can become slightly wavy. Sand the wavy edge flat using 120 grit paper. Wipe edge clean and apply your final flood coat Do not sand In your clean coating area.
- Drips: Drips that have accumulated on the bottom edge can be removed by sanding after the Envirotex Lite hardens. To easily remove drips, apply 2 wide plastic tape to back of project along edge prior to coating surface. Do not use masking tape. Press firmly to work out trapped air. Once surface is coated and cured, use a sanding block and sand through coating on bottom edge. Then peel tape off removing drips!
Furniture polish will prolong the life of the surface and remove smudges, etc. Heavy objects, when left for a period of time may leave impressions on the Envirotex Lite surface. Once the objects are removed, the impressions will disappear in a few hours at normal room temperatures.
Use Pumice or Rottenstone polishing powder and a wet sponge. Lightly wet the Envirotex Lite surface, then sprinkle with polishing powder. Apply a firm, slightly wet sponge and move in small circles until the entire surface gloss has been removed. Wipe surface clean and polish with paste type polish
LATEX OR OIL: Ultimately it’s your decision, both latex paint and oil paint will do a good job. When using white as a finish coat keep in mind that oil will turn yellow (and start doing so within 6 months) where latex keeps it color without turning yellow. Latex will dry faster and have virtually no odor. Traditionally oil has been a tougher film, but the 100% acrylic latex paints are a close second. The oils will level a little better than the latex but with a little finesse the latex can be made to look very nice. When using latex always use a top quality 100% acrylic latex, they are tougher than traditional vinyl latex and have better adhesion then some oils.
APPLICATION: A sprayed finish is the best. Now there is a draw back to spraying existing cabinets. You have to mask off the entire area that is going to be sprayed - ceiling, walls, countertops, appliances etc.. Taking the doors and drawer fronts out of the kitchen to be sprayed is a good idea, then you can brush or even roll the cabinet frames.
For brush or roll applications there are additives that help the paint to level and dry smoother. For oil paint you can add FLOOD’S PENETROL or XIM’S X-TENDER. For latex paint you can add FLOOD’S FLOETROL, XIM’S LATEX X-TENDER or WATER MIXED 8 PARTS PAINT AND 1 PART WATER. If rolling, stay away from foam roller and mohair rollers, they may tend to bubble the finish. On small surfaces like cabinets a 4” X 3/16” nap roller cover should give you the best finish.
If your plan does include taking the doors and or the drawer fronts off to be finished somewhere else, try to number them in an inconspicuous spot so you can put them back in the same place.
SURFACE PREP: Surface prep is about 85% of the job, but this is the part of the job most people try to cut corners on and that is why their paint jobs don’t work out as good as they should.
PAINTING OVER A CLEAR FINISH: After you decided to take them down or leave them up the first step is to clean the surface. Cleaning with LC-756 wax & grease remover will remove any waxes or silicone polishes, oils from your skin, cooking grease etc.. Solvent resistant gloves are recommended with this procedure. A two rag method works well, 1 with LC-756 on it to wet and soften the grease & oil and 1 dry to remove anything the wet one softens up. An alternative to this would be washing with TSP.. TSP is a very strong powdered soap that will cut the grease, oils, waxes but not silicones. It too requires wearing gloves as it is harsh on your skin. About 2 tablespoons per gallon of water and change the water often. When the surface is dry it needs to be sanded. This is to dull the surface and create profile not remove the clear finish from it (100 grit sandpaper should do).
PAINTING OVER A PAINTED SURFACE: Follow the same steps as above.
STRIPPING: Some old finishes need to be removed. If the finish is gummy and sticky (usually around the handle) or cracked and flaking you should take the time to remove it. After removal of the old finish you need to sand smooth with 100 to 150 grit sandpaper.
PRIMING: This is where your decision to either use latex or oil come into play. There are two latex primers to choose from. The best one and the most expensive is XIM’s UMA acrylic urethane primer. We use this primer for hard to coat surfaces such as ceramic tile, fiberglass, brick, glass, pvc and most plastics. Also UMA can be top coated with latex, oil (alkyd), urethane, epoxy or lacquer finish coats. The other latex primer we recommend is ZINSSERS 1-2-3 acrylic latex primer. This primer will stick to most painted or clear coated surfaces. It can be top coated with latex or oil (alkyd) paint.
With oil primer we have a few to choose from. The best one and again the most expensive is XIM’s 400 WHITE oil base primer. Like it’s latex partner (UMA) the 400 WHITE will stick to the hard to coat surfaces but can only be top coated with latex or oil (alkyd) paint. ZINSSER makes two oil primers, BULLS EYE ODORLESS and COVER STAIN. Both have similar adhesion qualities and can be top coated with latex or oil. BULLS EYE ODORLESS is as it’s name says, it’s odorless. It’s high solids formula makes it the better covering (hiding) of the two oil primers and it’s non-yellowing. COVER STAIN has a very volatile odor and is the less expensive of the two ZINSSER oil primers.
DEEP COLORED PRIMER: If your finish coat is a deep color it is safer to use a deep colored primer to match. A great way to do this is by tinting ZINSSERS CLEAR SHELLAC. Although it is possible to tint all of the other primers you can’t make the deep colors with them. The shellac is a very fast drying material, and it also has a very volatile odor. Since this is a clear product to begin with, it dries very thin and generally you only have to scuff with a scotch brite between coats.
SANDING: After the primer has thoroughly dried you can sand with 150 to 220 grit sandpaper to ensure that the surface is smooth when you apply your finish coat. If the primer is already smooth just scuff with scotch brite to dull or remove any dust. After sanding or scuffing remove any sanding dust with a tack cloth or a lightly dampened cloth.
IT’S TIME FOR PAINT : When choosing your paint don’t skimp. Use a top quality 100% acrylic latex or a top quality urethane enamel (oil). Remember the information in the APPLICATION section on page 1 it’s very helpful. If your brushing a latex paint use a good quality nylon polyester brush and if your using oil use a good quality natural bristle brush. Shine does matter, the higher the shine the more durable the finish but if you don’t like highgloss a semigloss will work.
|Repainting Aluminim Siding
FIRST STEP: Check for chalk on the surface. Wipe the palm of your hand on the surface, if a powdery residue comes off on your hand there is chalk on the surface. This chalk has to be removed by washing the surface.
WASHING: Washing will do more than remove the chalk it will also remove dirt and mildew. Washing can be done more than one way. You can wash by hand from the bottom up or apply the soap solution with a garden sprayer and power wash from the bottom up. The soap solution should be made of 3 parts water and 1 part bleach and ad detergent. This solution should remain wet on the surface for 10 to 15 minutes. The best detergent would be JOMAX ( follow label instructions for mixing ) other alternatives would be laundry detergent, dish detergent, Dirtex powdered soap or tsp (tri sodium phosphate). They will all work just fine but if you use tsp be careful not to make it too strong. Generally 2 tablespoons per gallon of water will do, if you make it stronger you may remove more than just the chalk. Another thing to remember about tsp is that it is a phosphate ( fertilizer ), it could inhibit the growth of weeds around your house. After washing the siding you must thoroughly rinse all the soap residue off.
PRIMING: Once all of the chalk residue has been removed, priming is not required. If any bare aluminum is exposed then use a 100% acrylic latex primer like XIM UMA primer, CALIFORNA PAINTS Frescoat latex primer or MAXUM 901Starter.
PAINTING: You should only use a 100% acrylic latex paint on your aluminum siding. CALIFORNIA PAINTS Frescoat 450-00 flat and 471-00 satin are our best and were ranked #1 two years in a row by consumers report. The reason we do not recommend an alkyd ( oil ) paint is because they fade & chalk in the sun. If you have primed your siding apply 1 or 2 finish coats of Frescoats acrylic latex house paint. Sometimes you can have your primer tinted to match your finish coat and eliminate a second coat of paint.
DETERMINE IF THE FACE (PATTERN) OF THE PAPER CAN BE PEELED OFF EASYLY.
IF THE PATTERN COMES OFF:
APPLY DIF WALLPAPER REMOVER, EITHER GEL TYPE OR CONCENTRATE TO THE PAPER BACKING AND PASTE THAT REMAINS ON THE WALL. ALLOW THE REMOVER SUFFICIENT TIME TO WORK, THEN SCRAPE THE BULK OF THE PASTE AND PAPER BACKING OFF. ONCE THE BULK IS REMOVED USE THE REMOVER TO WASH ALL THE REMAINING RESIDUE FROM THE WALL.
IF THE PATTERN DOES NOT COME OFF:
THE USE OF A PAPER TIGER WILL BE NEEDED TO PERFORATE THE PAPER. THE PERFORATION WILL ALLOW THE REMOVER ACCESS TO THE PASTE. THE BEST REMOVER FOR THIS APPLICATION IS THE GEL TYPE, IT WILL CLING TO THE WALL AND PENETRATE THROUGH THE PERFORATIONS SOFTENING THE PASTE. AFTER THE PASTE HAS SOFTENED YOU CAN SCRAPE OR PEEL THE PAPER OFF. ONCE THE PAPER IS OFF FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS DESCRIBED IN (IF THE PATTERN COMES OFF).
DIF GEL IS NON TOXIC, ODORLESS AND SAFE TO USE. IT IS NON WATERY AND WILL CLING TO THE WALL. IT IS READY TO USE AS IT COMES, IT HAS LONG LASTING OPEN TIME FOR EFFECTIVE SOAKING. THE GELS OPEN TIME WILL ALLOW YOU TO WORK ON LARGER SURFACES REDUCING YOUR WORK TIME. IT CAN BE APPLIED BY BRUSH OR ROLLER AND IS EFFECTIVE IN REMOVING CLAY BASE, HEAVY–DUTY CLEAR AND LIGHT WEIGHT PASTE.
DIF CONCENTRATE ALSO IS NON TOXIC, ODORLESS AND SAFE TO USE. IT IS A THINNER MORE WATERY SOLUTION, 22oz OF CONCENTRATE MIXES WITH 2 GALLONS OF WARM WATER (THE WARMER THE BETTER). BEST APPLIED BY BRUSH OR SPRAY, STARTING AT THE TOP OF THE WALL WORK AN AREA ABOUT 2’ x 2’. DIF CONCENTRATE IS THE MORE ECONOMICAL OF THE TWO REMOVERS BUT THERE IS MORE MESS THAN WITH DIF GEL.
PAPER TIGERS ARE THE TOOLS THAT WILL PERFORATE THE HOLES IN THE FACE OF THE PAPER. THEY COME IN TWO STYLES, SINGLE HEAD OR TRIPLE HEAD. THEIR BLADES DONT JUST PUNCH A HOLE IN THE PAPER THEY CUT AND PULL THE PAPER AWAY. THIS TOOL DOES NOT REQUIRE A LOT OF PRESURE APPLIED TO IT, JUST LET THE BLADES DO THE WORK AND THERE WILL BE LESS DAMAGE TO THE WALL.
|Concrete Stain: Coronado Paint 21-Line Final Finish
- Provides a water repellent, fade resistant, non-oxidizing finish for vertical or horizontal concrete.
- Use interior or exterior , final finish will solvent bond to itself which helps prevent chipping and peeling.
- Reduce 25% with xylene to produce a semi-transparent stain or use full strength to produce an opaque finish.
- Final finish provides a low matte sheen which is lessslippery on floors and steps.
- Pool decks
- Split face block
- 21-10 clear can be applied over a pigmented color but it must be sprayed to prevent pigment bleeding into the clear finish.
Do not apply in direct sunlight or on hot surfaces to prevent premature drying. Also gas blisters can be created by the heat turning the solvent into a gas.
Bathtub, sink and porcelain use
CORONADO EPOXY is a two component epoxy, for use in refinishing bath tubs, sinks and on porcelain surfaces. It provides a like new surface for years to come. It is not intended for hot surfaces like stove tops or hot tubs.
Please read all of the information on this page, it is very important to follow the surface prep and application information.
- If you are painting a tub, shower or sink with a metal drain, remove the metal drain before painting.
- Remove all peeling paint and repair chips and cracks with ALL METAL or DURAGLASS.
- Clean the surface thoroughly with comet cleanser, removing all soap scum & any residue.
- Etch or wet sand the surface. If etching use muriatic acid, if wet sanding use 220 grit wet sandpaper. Either way you do it the idea is to dull the surface and create profile for the new coating to adhere to.
- (Rinsing) if using acid rinse with straight ammonia then water. If sanding just use water, making sure there is no residue from acid etching or sanding.
- The surface must be thoroughly dry before painting.
CORONADO EPOXY is packaged for mixing equal parts of part “A” and part “B”. A one quart kit should cover about 80 square feet one time. Do not apply if temperature is below 65 F or above 90 F.
- Stir both cans before mixing. Mix equal parts of part “A and B” and stir well.
- Allow paint to stand for 30 minutes before using. Once paint is mixed together you only have 8 hours to use it.
- For brush application use a bristle brush. For roll application use a 3/16” cover. For spray application do not thin more than 5%.
- Apply two coats of epoxy 4-6 hours apart, if more than 48 hours elapses between coats you must sand the surface. Humidity and lack of ventilation can effect drying.
- Paint must dry 5-7 days (maintaining room temperature of 65 F minimum) before using or filling with water.
- If thinning is required use no more than5% of epoxy reducer, or mek.
- For cleanup use epoxy reducer, mek or lacquer thinner.
|Painting Concrete Floors
CLEAN THE FLOOR. Concrete floors should be cleaned with a good detergent if it just has dirt and dust on it. If the floor has grease or oils on it then use CORONADOS ’ 93-500 SURE PREP #1 OIL & GREASE EMULSIFIER. Mix sure prep #1 according to label instructions (light oil: 1- part SURE PREP #1 to 15 parts water and for heavy oil: up to 1 part SURE PREP #1 to 6 parts water).
ETCH THE FLOOR. Floors should be clean and dry before etching. Use CORONADOS ’ 93-400 SURE PREP #IV concrete etch. Mix 1 part acid to 3 parts water, this solution of 93-400 and water should etch approximately 100 square feet per mixed gallon. Muratic acid is an alternative to the 93-400, although it will not yield nearly as many square feet nor will it give as even of an etch as the 93-400. Acid solution should produce foaming and fizzing on the surface, if this does not happen there is a sealer on the floor and it must be removed. The result of etching should be a feel of 80 grit sandpaper.
NEUTRALIZE ACID SOLUTION. Apply ammonia straight not diluted on the acid about 5-10 minutes after acid was applied. This will neutralize the acid allowing the acid to be completely rinsed away with water.
PAINTING. The floor should be thoroughly dry before painting. For best results your first coat should be thinned 25% with the proper thinner, whether it’s water for latex paint or naptha for oil paint or even epoxy reducer for epoxy paint. Find out what the proper thinner is and use it do not substitute. A second coat should then be applied without thinning. Allowing a coating to cure thoroughly before heavy walking traffic or vehicle traffic is important to coating life and durability.
STEPS TO STORING PAINT
- Keep the rim of the can clean. After you pour the paint out of the can, clean the rim out with your paint brush or a rag. We sell an inexpensive pour spout that fits on the can and keeps the rim clean.
- Close the can with a rubber mallet or some other gentle way (but always making sure the lid is fully sealed). Closing the can with a regular hammer will distort the lid, preventing a good seal.
- There are a few things you can do to prevent the paint from skinning over in the can.
The idea behind these three options, is to keep the air that is trapped in the can from causing the paint to skin ove
- For oil paint you can gently pour a small amount of PAINT THINNER on top before closing the can.
- Cut a piece of WAX PAPER to fit the inside of the can and let it float on the paint.
- Some old timers say you can breathe into the can forcing the oxygen out and leaving carbon dioxide in
Keep paint from freezing
Keep label and lid clean so product info and formula info are legible
Keep cans dry so they won’t rust
Keep away from source of flame
If a skin does form, remove in one piece and strain remaining paint
There are different types of paneling, real wood, 4x8 sheets of grooved paneling with a contact paper face to look like real wood (this is the most common type) and Marlite FRP, a 4x8 sheet with a plastic like shiny face.
1.Clean the surface removing all dirt, grease, wax and polish. A good soap solution will remove most dirt and grime. TSP will remove most wax and cooking grease. A strong solvent like wax and grease remover (LC-756) will also remove wax and grease and some polishes. Scuff the surface with 120-150 grit sandpaper or Scotch Brite, to dull the surface and create profile for the primer to stick to.
2.The next step would be to prime the surface with a bonding type primer. Most bonding type primers say that sanding is not required, but it is a good idea to sand anyway so that you can get wet adhesion as well as dry adhesion. There are different types of bonding primers for different surfaces. For Marlite FRP you should use XIM UMA primer because it sticks to most plastics. For real wood, an oil primer like Coverstain or Bulls Eye Odorless work great to prime as well as block out dark wood stain colors. For contact paper faced paneling a number of different primers will work depending on preference, 1-2-3, UMA, Coverstain, Bulls Eye Odorless. Do not use drywall primer they do not have the bond of the others.
3.The last step is to paint the surface.